Brands Accused of Stealing Mexico’s Indigenous Designs

Mexico City, Mexico — In recent years, Mexico has fought against cultural appropriation in fashion designs and artisanal works by major brands, the latest being Adidas’ "Oaxaca Slip-On" sandals, accused of replicating Zapotec huaraches from Yalalag without authorization. The Adidas case joins other high-profile national and international brands that have improperly used indigenous cultural elements in their designs. Below are the most controversial cases.

Carolina Herrera and the Embroideries

In 2019, Mexico’s Ministry of Culture accused Venezuelan designer Carolina Herrera of cultural appropriation for incorporating, without permission, embroideries from the communities of Tenango de Doria, Hidalgo; the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, Oaxaca; and the Saltillo sarape from Coahuila in her Resort 2020 collection.

At the time, the Mexican government sent a formal letter requesting an explanation and highlighting the lack of recognition and participation of the involved communities.

Zara’s Replicas of Huipiles

In 2021, Spanish fashion chain Zara, owned by Grupo Inditex and founded by Amancio Ortega and Rosalía Mera, was denounced for unauthorized use of indigenous designs (Mixtec, Mixe, and Zapotec) in its clothing. Other brands like Anthropologie and Patowl were also accused of cultural appropriation in a letter from then-Secretary of Culture Alejandra Frausto Guerrero, for replicating garments with designs from Oaxacan artisans.

Frausto Guerrero noted that Zara had produced a midi dress with embroidery based on ancestral symbols and traditional "huipiles" from San Juan Colorado, Oaxaca—a garment that can take artisans up to a month to create. Anthropologie and Patowl were accused of using Mixe and Zapotec embroidery on pants and blouses.

Of the three, only Zara stated it respected Mexico’s indigenous communities and claimed the designs were not intentionally influenced by Mixtec art.

Pineda Covalin’s Embroidered Bags

In 2014, Mexican brand Pineda Covalin was accused of using traditional embroidery designs without authorization to create a line of bags featuring indigenous motifs, without direct collaboration or fair profit-sharing with the communities.

Other Accused Companies

In 2022, American luxury brand Ralph Lauren was accused of copying textiles from Tlaxcala and Saltillo. Similarly, fast-fashion retailer Shein was denounced in 2022 for using Mayan designs from Yucatán, Campeche, and Quintana Roo without compensation.

In 2020, French designer Isabel Marant sparked controversy for copying Purépecha patterns. Though she issued a public apology, Marant told the BBC she would "pay tribute to our sources of inspiration" in the future.

These controversies have highlighted not only the ethical debate over respecting collective identity but also the urgent need to strengthen legal frameworks ensuring recognition and fair compensation for indigenous creators. In this context, a 2024 constitutional reform recognized the cultural rights and collective intellectual property of indigenous peoples.

Why Is Cultural Appropriation an Important Issue?

President Claudia Sheinbaum announced that her administration is drafting a new law to strengthen protections for the cultural heritage of indigenous and Afro-Mexican communities. The legislation aims to prevent unauthorized use of cultural elements and establish fair trade conditions for indigenous artisanal works.

The proposal includes specific sanctions for misuse of cultural heritage, covering not only archaeological elements but also contemporary creative expressions by indigenous peoples.

This effort aligns with the "Original" initiative, promoted by the Ministry of Culture, which raises awareness among artisan communities about protecting their creations.